Slow Walks in Paris Sept 27 - Oct 8

We arrived in Paris on Saturday morning September 27th having taken Continental’s red eye from Newark to Charles DeGaulle. I spent most of the trip watching movies with a few winks. Allie slept for large chunks of the time. From the airport we took the RER to Gare Norde and walked to Thyag’s apartment in Montmartre. Took us less than an hour - all uphill - suitcase on wheels- backpacks – in hindsight it was really too much for Allie’s hip.

Thyag had graciously offered us use of his apartment. In many ways the catalyst for our trip. We have both been to Paris before, Allie for long periods and me for a few vacations, but never together. So we had been talking about coming for many years. Doing it as part of her surgical recovery process (week 5+) seemed like the perfect time and it was.

I’ve never been to Paris in the Fall. The quality of sunlight, clouds, trees were magical, truly sensational. This Fall has felt that way at home as well. My bike rides have been visual color feasts. Maybe its just how I’m looking at life right now ( despite all the economic, environmental, political craziness out there!)

When asked what was best about the trip I’ve been saying, the slow walks together. We walked for long distances slowly almost every day. It provided a way of seeing and being together that were just plain wonderful. Often like a long slow dance, a new form of walking meditation. The first full day Sunday we walked (with periodic sits) for over 4 hours. A huge increase in Allie’s rehab program. That day she used two hiking sticks. By the third day she was using a cane. She caught a cold but kept on trucking most days. Through the daily walks and climbs (Montmartre and the Metro have lots of stairs) I could see her strengthening each day.

Since we didn’t know what her physical capacity we made very few plans with friends and professional colleagues. As it unfolded we were able to get together with Jon and Debbie who happened to also be wandering around France at the same time. I sometimes think I've seen more of them in Europe than in the State’s - although its been a long time since Tim and Laura's wedding. We had a great night of conversations with Maggie Tim Molly and Ruby over chef Dunne’s chicken fajitas, a french innovation. Too short a time and to be continued. Colette introduced us to Angelina’s wonderful desserts and a wonderful reconnection. Nick from my Coaching Supervision group and his SO, Kathyrn, met with us and introduced us to mint tea at the Mosque, a special and repeatable time. And with Libby, also from the Coaching Supervision group, I had a rich conversation about work and life over another incredible meal. Thank goodness for all the walks or I’d be coming back another pants size!

We were very much on the museum tourist path.
• Museum at Montparnesse – great show of Vera Pagava – Georgian artist from the 20’s – my favorite of all we saw.
• Musee Bordelle – repeatable
• Paris Museum 2 day pass
o L’Orangerie – Monet’s waterlilies – great environment
o Louvre – √ ok, did that – enjoyed watching people take pictures of the Mona Lisa. I thought it would be bigger.
o D’Orsay – impressionists – been here before – glad I went back
o Des Arts et Metiers – best I’ve seen on the history of technology
• Palais Royale – Emil Nolde show – few I’m drawn to. Rest very bizarre.
• Musee de la vie Romantique – Ingres drawings show –
• Institut Du Monde Arabe – Oum Kasloun show – the Elvis of Eqypt – fascinating – couple video were the most interesting. Next time we want to do the main museum but we got there too late.

When people think of Paris they often think of food and so do we. We ate many meals at the apartment, shopping at the local shops. Food is expensive there whether you eat in or out but obviously less in. I could just live on the bread and wine with a little cheese now and then. We had a few outstanding meals out. The best two right near Thyag’s apartment. The rolled octopus appetizer (see picture) at Piccola Strada was the best ceviche type dish I’ve had and I love ceviche. And the rabbit stew at Part des Anges was worth going back for. Next time we'll use Maggie's guide.

And the night life - We were there for Nuit Blanche, a series of happenings that ran til the wee hours of the night. We went to notre dame and listened to a small group of singers sing plainsong that filled the place nicely and then off to a series of happenings - marcel proust being read by thousands of people and videotaped. the crowds were incredible ( see pictures).

On the last full day before we had to prepare to leave we did the classic tourist trip - the double decker bus around to all the city's most famous sights. it was great to do. A bit clouded over but gave a context for the whole city. Worth doing we thought.

The pictures capture the feeling of the experience best so check our pixs at:
http://picasaweb.google.com/newell.eaton/SlowWalksInParisFall08#